I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: I love India.

India is a huge country that I sure as hell haven’t explored enough of, but the places that I have been I love and adore. As a solo-female backpacker, India sounds intimidating doesn’t it? I think it all depends on how you want to do India. What style of traveler are you? Can you go with the flow? Do you need to see every important city and site? 

Rishikesh India Shiva Solo Backpack India

How Do I Do India?

For me, I cozy up in a city for a month and make it my home. I’ve spent a month in Kerala in April 2018, a month in Rishikesh in May 2018, another month in Rishikesh in March 2019, and a month in Dharamsala in April 2019. Four months in India and just three cities? Yes. Well, there was a quick 3 day trip to Amritsar to see the Golden Temple, but a month in a city is what I love. I have all my favorite spots mapped out. Everyone in these small cities looks familiar after awhile and recognizes me as I’m on my walk from my hostel to lunch, yoga class, a hike, or wherever else I’m off to. 

India feels like a home to me. There is honking, cows, noise, dirt. Yes oh yes. But there’s also incredibly warm people all around you. It can be overwhelming in these unfamiliar places, and hopping on a 10 hour overnight train sure is stressful. But when you settle down in India, you fall in love with India.

How Do You Know Where To Stay In India?

I also like to stay at big hostels with lots of great reviews. I only book two nights in advance and then walk around visiting other hostels to see if there is a better one out there. In Rishikesh, there isn’t any hostel better than Sonu Guest House. Kind, friendly staff members, great air-conditioning, hot showers, a community kitchen, and the fastest wifi in Rishikesh makes Sonu Guest House my home away from home. 

In Dharamsala, you’ll want to book a couple nights at a big, comfy hostel like Zostel McCleod, and then walk around your area to find a good homestay. What’s a homestay you ask? It’s like a 4-12 room apartment building that a local person has erected for the purpose of tourists staying there. The owner usually lives there too. It’s probably obvious, but they can’t be found online anywhere. You have to walk around and ask if there are available rooms. Make sure you take a peek inside before booking. Usually for 300-500 rupees you can have a great room. 300 rupees usually means a shared toilet, 500 rupees will give you a private bathroom.

In Kerala, I stayed the whole month at Amrita Puri Ashram. For $7 a day, I had a private room with a western toilet, and three meals a day. You heard that right! 3 meals a day and a private room! Whoa! No hot water though, and no wifi. You also have access to all the ashrams’ activities from morning kirtans to puja ceremonies. There is a lot to experience at the ashram! 

A Little Word About The ATMs In India

My other tip for travelers is to also take a large amount of money out of ATMs whenever you find one. That’s because finding a working ATM can be extremely difficult in India. Make sure you take out a few thousand rupees straight at the airport and stock up when you find a working ATM elsewhere. I usually take out the INR rupee equivalent of $300 whenever I get to a working ATM.

Is The Food In India Safe To Eat?

Ask locals for advice wherever you go about what the price of a mango should be or where the best restaurant is. Sometimes if you buy one mango the seller will give you a high price, but if you buy 2 kilos of mango you’d pay the same price as just one! Know your local prices!

Stay away from raw-uncooked foods, unless you’re at a fancy western restaurant. Trust your guts. Don’t hurt your guts.

Punyah Yoga Rishikesh

What Should I Buy In India?

You’ll be amazed at all the incredible health food products you can pick up along the way for super cheap! I always send a box home from Rishikesh full of incense, teas, herbal supplements, and Ayurvedic creams, lotions, soaps. It’s a dream for anyone who likes to take care of their bodies and priorities health and wellness. Seriously leave extra room in your bag, people! 

Even though I continuously travel with just a backpack, I always buy Ayurvedic almond and cashew hair smoothing cream, Ayurvedic facial masks (powder form), and lots of tulsi pills. Haven’t heard of tulsi? It’s Indian basil. And it’s magic.

Questions About India?

India! You ready? If you have any questions drop me a line at [email protected] – I’m happy to answer any questions you might have!

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